The aqua-painted picket-fence exterior at the traffic circle adjacent to the Museum for Islamic Art catches the eye, whether one is whizzing by on a bus, cycling on the bike path, or passing by on foot. What once was a quiet flower shop is now a lively neighborhood café with a mélange of students at laptops, patrons from near and far, and a clientele as diverse as Jerusalem itself.
The inviting atmosphere prompted me to enter on my first visit or two, and motivated me to write about it.
Now approaching the first anniversary of opening Café Malke, owner Ido has the perspective to look back while keeping an eye on the future. The café opened its doors on November 8, a mere month after the outbreak of the Israel-Hamas war. A recent WhatsApp to his clientele is full of gratitude for the steady patronage.
The café is nestled beside major national and cultural landmarks, such as the President’s Residence, the Jerusalem Theatre, the Israel Bar Association, and the Van Leer Institute. The overlooked corner begged for a social focus.
Starting from simple goals, with the primary addition of professional Italian equipment and refrigerated takeaway offerings, Café Malke evolved into a small restaurant, with sun-drenched outdoor and curbside seating. Ido’s mantra was “to stick to a variety of good, simple food and quick service.” That is still his formula for the popular combination resulting from a year’s experimentation.
With the war’s outbreak, people wanted to meet outside their homes. For the most part, Ido has seen that customers from other areas have used his place as a magnet for their strolls, attracted to the intimate atmosphere that comes from locals frequenting a favorite spot.
He was originally surprised with the warm response. The corner had great potential, he thought, for the average joe to enjoy his or her cup of joe. Although it is situated on a busy street, the café became a bubble and achieved the “good vibes atmosphere” that he sought. It is still a work in progress as far as Ido and partner, Mordi Kersner, are concerned. Their winning recipe is equal parts creativity and flexibility, stirred well.
Continually changing up its aura, the café has an informal gallery of items by Israeli artists and designers. Among the eclectic displays are laser-cut metal wall sculptures by Joel Amit of Nayot; an array of dried local floral bouquets suitable for vases or nosegays or headbands for birthday celebrants; designer mini vials for climbing vines; handmade ceramics; fun socks depicting local characters and scenes; and seasonal house plants.
Café Malke reflects the range of Ido’s interests, stretching beyond the culinary. Ido’s accomplished photography is on display. He is a devotee of Frisbee Freestyle, and Frisbees are offered, too. On occasion, Ido can be found in the patio giving bar and bat mitzvah lessons to kids with secular or traditional backgrounds, who may start as reluctant learners but end up inspired and confident.
What about the food?
Although I have frequented this café several times, I have only sampled a few items.
In fall 2023, I tried the lentil soup. It was great on a coolish day to enjoy the Mizrahi-influenced version that was cumin-laced, partly blended, providing a bowl of satisfying goodness. On a different visit, I enjoyed the cinnamon muffin made with chunks of walnuts, and I took home a container of stuffed vegetables made off-site by Four Seasons caterers.
A favorite for those who start their day at Café Malke is the sandwich called Limon Kavush – a double entendre meaning “occupied lemon” and “pickled lemon.” This was my choice to try when returning to review the café.
As one who is an obsessive coffee shop lover, I must say this is not an item that I have seen around. The sandwich comprises scrambled eggs, cold but still fluffy, set on a piece of whole wheat sourdough bread with sprinkles of flax seeds. There are bits of fresh green onion and sliced ripe tomatoes. The spicy pickled lemon spread kicks up the quick breakfast to another level. Although wrapped in plastic, the sandwich tastes freshly made.
As for my latte, the regular size is served in a short glass, as requested on the strong side, with milk and a sprinkle of cinnamon, which enhanced the beautiful coffee art in the foam. It was a perfect ratio of foam to brew, and the request for cinnamon on top did not mess up the coffee, a failing at many other places, believe me. Kersner says the coffee beans originate from Brazil and India, mostly a mix of Arabica and some Robusta, and are roasted in the North for them.
Other sandwiches include smoked salmon; mozzarella; Gouda cheese with artichokes; vegan antipasti; and roasted eggplant and tehina. Sandwiches are priced between NIS 25 and NIS 47, depending on size, filling, and bread type, including country-style sourdough bread supplied by Rustic Bakery.
Kersner is the counter king. He takes the orders for coffee, soup, makes the sandwiches, and generally keeps everything humming. He is knowledgeable about the cakes and baked goods in the vitrine, which include vegan muffins from the Kazze café, all very tempting. So tempting, that I tried a vegan blueberry muffin, strictly out of a sense of duty. Generous in size and in blueberry distribution, it has a crumble top, and has been added to my short list of destination muffins.
Greek or vegan antipasti salads have joined the offerings (NIS 34-NIS 48, depending on the size). A popular seeded pretzel bread is also on offer, as well as juices. Alcoholic drinks start at a shot of arak for NIS 17. There is bottled beer, premixed cocktails, whiskey shots, wine by the glass, or a bottle of wine for NIS 109.
A relatively new addition is a freezer containing takeaway items, easing the chore of dinner for area workers. There are trays of lasagna, layered with either spinach or eggplant; a choice of spinach, onion, or mushroom quiches; soups; and cakes.
One thing that is not frozen is the menu, thanks to Ido’s dedication to finding the right mix and being responsive to the challenges that wartime and climate changes bring, affecting prices locally and globally.
As a workplace
As many people work remotely, there are those who have adopted Café Malke as an office away from home.
Most people are aware that a café can accommodate the laptop brigade only up to a point. When the place starts filling up, it is expected that people will double up at tables and be considerate of the establishment. High emotional intelligence is appreciated on the part of this cohort: Be polite; be aware that this is a business trying to make a go of it in tough times.
House rules include that smoking is permissible only outdoors.
Jerusalem, Ido points out, has been perceived by those who live below Sha’ar Hagai as a dangerous place, with headlines over the years showing violence in the capital during the seven decades of independence. Yet, this year of the Israel-Hamas war, Jerusalem has been blessedly spared from missiles that have plagued almost everywhere else in the country.
Thus, he says, Jerusalem was “compensated with a great deal of internal tourism,” even if overseas visitors have been sparse, making this a successful first-year run by all accounts.
Who is Malke?
Ido proudly named his café after his grandmother Malke Parnass, who is depicted in the Picture in Stone project of the Lev Ha’ir Community Center in Nahlaot, next to the Tut Street park.
Her family came from Toledo, Spain, settled in Jerusalem’s Old City, and then Nahlaot. Her photo is the brand design of her namesake spot. The family can trace 14 generations living in Jerusalem from her side.
Looking ahead
Being so close to the Jerusalem Theatre, Café Malke has become a pleasant pre-theater drop-in. Popular are the croissants, which include savory flavors and occasional surprises. They are also a treat on Friday mornings.
For the future, the partners are exploring hosting small events in their garden area. The ever-dynamic nature of the food industry has opened the team to considering some atypical fare for the upcoming winter season.■
The writer was a guest of the café.
The writer is a Jerusalem artist whose graphic medical memoir, Life-Tumbled Shards, was published in 2023. She keeps a street photography war journal of Jerusalem since Oct. 7, 2023, We Have Nowhere to Go (working title). [email protected]
- Location: 13 Hanassi Street
- Open: Sunday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday, 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (depending on Shabbat times).
- Kashrut: Tzohar for the overall endeavor. Rabbinate and other kashrut supervision for products sold on site.
- Prices: Reasonable
- Tel: 050-666-9066
